Fashion isn't just about spring and fall. Pre-collections have increasingly become a force in the industry, with new designers joining the fray every season. Here, a continuously archived collection of all the looks from pre-fall 2009. NEW TODAY: NAEEM KHAN, NICOLE MILLER,ST. JOHN ALBERTA FERRETTI: She is a romantic at heart, and Alberta Ferretti’s lineup of dresses were a nod to silver-screen stars. ALEXANDER WANG: Influenced by the early Nineties and Tom Ford’s Gucci days, Alexander Wang turned out a sexy, sophisticated lineup. ARMANI COLLEZIONI: Understated elegance was the order of the day for Giorgio Armani. BADGLEY MISCHKA: According to Mark Badgley and James Mischka, pre-fall is about “beautiful, happy clothes — nothing serious,” and with that in mind, they turned out a lineup of fanciful gowns and youthful cocktail dresses with plenty of embellishments, feathers and frayed ruffles. BURBERRY PRORSUM: Revisiting the classics, Christopher Bailey turned out a stellar lineup with a polished yet disheveled sensibility. CALVIN KLEIN: Francisco Costa showed two sides of his current fascination with chic CAROLINA HERRERA: Carolina Herrera hit a charming balance between soft and strict. CHANEL MÉTIERS D'ART: Karl Lagerfeld showed a Russian-themed satellite collection with glimmering brocades, fur trims and luscious embroideries. DIANE VON FURSTENBERG: It’s a jungle out there, or, as Diane von Furstenberg said of her pre-fall collection, an urban jungle. DKNY: Classic looks with clean lines were the order of the day. DOLCE & GABBANA: Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana have gone all out for a dressed-up sensuality this season in both their signature tailored looks in gray flannels and tweeds and shapely dresses in silk satin and velvet, some detailed with paillettes and embroideries. DONNA KARAN: Nix “pre-fall.” Donna Karan’s “transeasonal” collection, as she called it, was inspired by today’s economic climate and intended to be worn year-round. DOO.RI: Doo-Ri Chung offered a coherent collection focused on proportions and tricks, as in dresses that give the illusion of having separate layers. GIORGIO ARMANI: Armani kept his options open with slim or A-line skirts, full or lean pants and elaborately detailed jackets. ISAAC MIZRAHI: Isaac Mizrahi turned out a terrific mix of seasonless looks that the J.MENDEL: Each season, Gilles Mendel expands his range of eveningwear choices and younger, less serious furs to throw on top. For pre-fall, he has also added lots of day looks. MAX MARA: Inspired by New York City in the Fifties, the design team behind Max Mara turned out a collection of pretty printed dresses, cozy knits and cocoon coats — all timeless and feminine. MISSONI: Angela Missoni focused on contemporary, kooky knitwear. MOSCHINO CHEAP AND CHIC: The pre-fall lineup features lean silhouettes, but with such feminine details as bowknots, flounces, pearl embroidery and draping. NAEEM KHAN: Naeem Khan stepped up the glamour quotient with an array of colors and patterns on his evening and cocktail dresses. And with the economy in mind, the designer also scaled back prices and offered knitwear and separates. NARCISO RODRIQUEZ: Narciso Rodriguez infused his collages into bold prints on silk dresses and tops, creating a layered effect. NICOLE MILLER: Inspired by astrology, Nicole Miller incorporated a star motif into prints and embroideries on tunics and dresses. OSCAR DE LA RENTA: Good times and bad, one can always count on Oscar de la Renta to deliver real clothes, the kind that have at least a prayer of being purchased and worn. RACHEL ROY: The designer was inspired by "Bugsy Malone" for her chic, quirky collection. RAG & BONE: Rag & Bone stayed true to its men’s wear-inspired roots, softened up with silky numbers. RENA LANGE: It was a night with Juliette Gréco in Paris for Julian Neale and his design team, whose lineup featured sculptural tweed jackets, pleated pants and soft chiffon skirts. ROBERTO CAVALLI: Cavalli played up botanical, animal and feather motifs in a neutral palette with dashes of turquoise and fuchsia. ST. JOHN: “Customers are looking for investment dressing and ensembles that can be worn from day to night,” St. John ceo Glenn McMahon says of pre-fall. TULEH: Winter gardens were the inspiration behind Bryan Bradley’s collection for Tuleh. VERSACE: Donatella Versace emphasized bold, graphic silhouettes. VERA WANG: Drawing on the “boyish sophistication” of Gabrielle Chanel, Vera Wang played up a narrow silhouette in a mostly dark palette, showing cropped trousers and long cotton tunics, the latter with embellished panels. ZAC POSEN: Posen showed a salon-style presentation with plenty of French flair. ZERO + MARIA CORNEJO: Prints were key for Maria Cornejo as she worked her usual geometric shapes in seasonless fabrics.
futurism, one sober and the other, light as air.
designer referred to as the “stock for fall’s soup.”
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